Belize Expedition–Day 2
April 13, 2014
Breakfast of local sausage and eggs is served at 7:00 AM on the beachside palapa amid excited laughter. We take our mountains of gear to the next door outfitter, Island Expeditions, where the staff is thoroughly relaxed but extremely organized about helping us sort out stuff to store for the duration, stuff going with us for the next two days at Glover’s Reef, and stuff they will bring to us along with the kayaks for our subsequent unguided adventure.
Then along with other trippers we’re ushered into the 600 HP Panga boat that takes us the 35 miles offshore to Glover’s, a large coral atoll outside the barrier reef.
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The color blue reputedly “conveys a sense of trust, loyalty, cleanliness, and understanding.” This may explain the heavenly pleasure afforded by the sight of water and sky as we travel.
Arriving at the dock of Southwest Caye (pronounced “Key”), an island comprising one tiny corner of the atoll, we are welcomed to some trim tent cabins under coconut laden palms. The cooling breeze from the eastern windward side creates a luscious mixture with the damp heat of the tropical air.
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Our local guides welcome us cordially. Mike is soft-spoken and authoritative.
KiMike is droll and hyperathletic.
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They invite us to begin snorkling in a patch reef not far offshore. I wear the merino wool hunters’ long underwear that Joe has brought me for protection from the somewhat threatening sun and for warmth underwater. It works perfectly for both and I take it off only after sunset for the duration of the trip.
The snorkeling equipment I purchased in a dive shop at some expense also works without a hitch. The living coral and the fish are bewilderingly varied and beautiful in shape and movement. I’d prefer to remain in one place for a long time just to take in a single vista, but the group is shepherded around the patch and then back to the shore for a lunch of freshly caught fish fingers, home baked bread and cookies, and a salad of local produce, introduced by the ebullient cook Diana, aka Princess Di.
After a nap we try out the kayaks, led by Kimike, paddle to a different patch reef, and jump in the water to discover roaming barracuda and fish that appear to be kissing, but which actually are jockeying for territory.
Another welcome rest in the late afternoon heat is ended by the haunting call of the blown conch, recalling The Lord of the Flies but signalling Happy Hour.
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Joe helps in the kitchen and the rest of us socialize with supplied beer, fresh chips, and pineapple salsa.
The dinner is fresh caught fish in a coconut cream sauce, greek salad, mashed potato and cheeze casserole, cauliflower and broccoli, and flan.
All the staff and guests introduce themselves after dinner and we are told never to step on or touch the living coral since it is so fragile. The sun sets early and quickly and in the moonlight the sound of lapping waves and hissing palm fronds is punctuated by shrieks of laughter from the kitchen.
