The morning light illuminated a building on the corner with a tower also designed by Rosen

the whole streetscape an assemblage of distinctive masterpieces

After a light breakfast, a short tram ride took us to the downtown central square encircled by towered Victorian period buildings,

before one of which Jan posed to add to our collection of City Hall portraits.

The Radhuspladsen was still  free of the crowds, noise and litter that packed it later in the day, adding impact to its central fountain depicting the ferocious  and beautiful battle between a bull and a dragon.

Entering City Hall we were dwarfed by a grand rectangular space

adjoining a more modest chamber available at low cost for private weddings. In a corner near the entry, we noticed a cluster people preparing balloons, bags filled with food and bottles of champagne.

A couple of blocks away we found the National Museum and started in on the medieval collection, both of us having studied Anglo Saxon what seemed as far in the past as the material itself.  (Jan earned an M.A. in medieval comparative literature at Columbia in 1969).

Next to another fierce battle with a dragon, this one carved in wood, we were intrigued by the display of one of the earliest printed artifacts, an actual indulgence signed by the Pope’s representative in 1517 guaranteeing that the purchase by the living would shorten the term of torture in Purgatory of their dead friend or relative.

The massive promotion and sale of these early Crypto items was a major source of funds for the Catholic Church, and objection to the scam was a major energizer of the Protestant Reformation in Northern Europe. As we chortled knowingly over the case, we heard a loud voice from behind call out “Janet and Steven,” which I recognized immediately as belonging to Diana W., a fellow medieval literature student with Jan with whom we’ve had widely spaced connections since then in Canada and California.

Turns out she was in Copenhagen with her daughter who was attending an international conference. That brought the excursion in medieval history to an end with a lengthy catch-up session in the coffee shop.

After a late siesta in the hotel we took the tram to Krogers Familiehave a garden restaurant recommended by the driver from the airport the day before as a genuine Copenhagen hangout. The service was slow and the food forgettable, but the setting was lovely and we sat next to a large multigenerational multiracial family with whom we shared excited conversation.

Our decision to schedule travel during the summer rush was necessitated by Jan’s City Council meeting schedule. We made the conservative choice of Europe again because of our ages and shared youthful  reverence for its high culture: literature, philosophy, music, art, architecture. We picked  Scandinavia to avoid the heatwaves and fires feared for the south and because I’d never been there, though Jan had visited briefly during her sophomore year abroad. Our one personal connection was a long lost college roommate of hers whom she managed to arrange meeting for coffee one afternoon in Stockholm. We selected a tour format at the late date we reserved that would choose destinations, handle transport arrangements, book accommodations, and provide only a single half-day local tour in each country. And we arranged for two days before and after the tour to make our own way.

The trip began on a disastrous note.  The day before departure, when I tried to check-in to our flight purchased in May on Expedia for Copenhagen on United from SLO via San Francisco to Munich and then via United’s “partner” Lufthansa,  I was informed by a United agent that Lufthansa rejected the reservation because my first and last names had been reversed and could not be corrected at this late date. In order to carry through, we would have to lose our seats on the second leg and purchase new tickets from Munich from Baltic Air at last minute prices plus a bunch of penalties–for the additional cost of $7,000.  Knowing that delay would mean missing the tour and assuming this could be eventually resolved (it never was), we accepted the extortionate deal.

The approach to Copenhagen on a calm sunny day highlighted the flatness of Denmark’s topography and  vulnerability to sea-level rise.

We’d booked a room in the boutique Hotel Savoy for two nights preceding the Firebird Company Tour and upon arrival delighted in the art-nouveau style of its facade designed by Anton Rosen (1859-1928),

whose eminent status among Danish architects was confirmed by a big book in the lobby.

Excited by the new destination, I went exploring the neighborhood and found a park that surrounded a large lagoon full of people enjoying the sunset

Google Maps led me back to the hotel via a street passing right through a fanciful theatre building

On the other end of the passage a restaurant window sported the image of an exuberant waiter

Its adjoining window opened to living chefs gesturing with equal exuberance

Love and Marriage, love and marriage
Go together like a horse and carriage

That’s the old song from the play*
We used to sing back in the day,

Remembering an earlier time
When little farms and towns were prime,

Where couples met at church or dance
Familiar spots to find romance.

Since then, we switched our sense of place
The global village became the space

Where modern people first entwine
In the world-wide web, on screen, online.

But some old things remain the same
For our young Candice and her Shane

A community farm, a tie to the land
Co-workers and friends joined in a band,

And in this antique barn just now
The ancient rite of speaking their vow,

The words we witnessed that bind to last
Their lives, their families, their future and past.

A timeless moment, a rock to resist
Amidst the floods of change, to persist.

So, with love in marriage for 58 years
Sustained by that vow, I say, “Cheers!”

*

Out at the river this morning, I found a purple flowering plant I’d not seen before. I took out the phone, clicked Google Lens, placed it near the blooms and tapped. A mosaic of pictorial links popped up identifying it as dog’s tongue.

During her Friday Nature Journaling, Ann Marie demonstrated Merlin, the Cornell Ornithology Lab app I’ve had on my phone for over a year but never used.  Identifying real time bird calls with the tap of a finger, it confers powers of an experienced birder upon a complete neophyte.  Hear a bird call, even if faint or mixed with other ambient sounds, touch the button, the source with a name and a picture and a link to Wikipedia appears on the screen.

Yesterday morning, walking back from the river, my attention was arrested by a loud cheep originating in a blue spruce tree in the neighbor’s yard. I took the phone from my right pocket, opened Merlin, and tapped. When the next cheep came, there was American Robin. I showed it to the woman there watering her new sod, who’d never heard of the app. Out from the branches scampered the real robin, and cheeped again, both seen and heard. Next day the woman told me she’d downloaded Merlin and already shared it with several friends.

AI has been a topic of conversation among three generations during our visit. An essay in today’s NY Times by one of AI’s creators, acknowledging the ignorance about how it actually works and where it’s going, claims that AI will soon absorb most jobs in computer science. The author says that instead of learning coding and programming as has been recommended to young people for a generation, all students should return to an emphasis on liberal arts and math, since those fields develop capabilities that still are not available to this exploding new technology.

Counter to that, and also to my imagined literary conversations with Robert MacFarlane celebrating “The Old Ways,” I realized that the extension of senses created by Lens and Merlin heightening my physical and mental experience of nature demonstrates how far Artificial Intelligence has fused with its predecessor and taken up residence in my fingers and brain.

My lead guide in this difficult transition has been Ann Marie. We met as fellow members of the White Heron Sangha, a meditation group I’d belonged to for ten years where I’d regularly given “dharma talks” requiring reading and writing preparation that provided some continuity with my previous professional activity.  A fellow Cal Poly faculty retiree and environmental educator, she’d served as Secretary for the Board at City Farm SLO and then stepped down to free time for her growing responsibilities in a national organization devoted to Nature Journaling around the time I shifted involvement with the Farm to the Creek Project.

One day she came as a guest presenter to the twice-weekly Pacific Beach Continuation High School Ecology class I was co-teaching at the Creek with Deannie, the official science instructor.  Anne-Marie brought along little pen, paper and water color kits for each student:

and within the 40 minutes available, got most of them to produce a creditable page recording their observations at the site–to their own and their teachers’ amazement.

Greater amazement was elicited by examples from her journals she laid out on the picnic table.

I was entranced with the lushly colored sketches, the calligraphy, the varying page layouts, the scientific precision of their visual and verbal descriptions, and even more by the immediacy of the moment captured in their quick strokes, complementing their recording of location, time, date, season and weather.  Hesitantly I asked if I could photograph some of those pages for more time to absorb their rich feast of information. When the class ended I invited her to walk the trails I’d constructed over the last year with the help of College Corps student volunteers.

A few weeks later she returned for another workshop with students. She was carrying binoculars and said she’d like to do some of her own journaling along the creek. I was thrilled to find another person intrigued enough by my pet spot hidden in a canyon just below the shopping center and car dealerships on the opposite bank to want to linger there.  An hour later she emerged from the bush and said she was thinking of returning periodically on Friday mornings for more.

On one of those Fridays she showed me the pages she’d created so far. They included new names for familiar places, drawings of birds and plants I’d seen and not seen, stories of fleeting animal dramas and slow vegetational changes revealed through fresh eyes.

These were signs I’d been waiting for.  The original grant proposal for the Creek Project included installation of informational guideposts to engage visitors with natural and historical features of the site. But the institutional formality of earlier samples to me had the opposite effect. These journal pages’ combination of artistry, information and immediacy could open hidden treasures of the place to newcomers.

Once again, I hesitantly asked if she would consent to such a use and received a wary affirmative response.  The originals would have to be scanned professionally, reproduced on weather-resistant boards, and mounted on t-posts. With the help of our supportive printer at UPS, the hardware expert at Miner’s and my grandson apprentice, they took their place.

song

This is the initial entry here about the Prefumo Creek Restoration and Enhancement Project, my main activity for the past three years.

As the second and largely solitary portion of the project nears completion, my attention is turning from weed-whacking, chainsawing and mulch-moving to making it accessible to more people, rebuilding lapsed institutional support for its further expansion, telling its story and studying its lessons.

That study led me yesterday to a Google search about the bizarre growth habits of its dominant occupant, the Arroyo Willow. Buried deep in the list of uninformative links, I discovered a marvellous scientific paper published in September 2024: THE ROLE OF PARTIAL LIMB BREAKS IN THE GROWTH AND PERSISTENCE OF ARROYO WILLOW (SALIX LASIOLEPIS),

Its subject has intrigued me ever since I started cutting a pathway through the thicket of willows along the creek bank to open views of the incised channel 15 feet below.  The heavy trunks of the oldest trees crawl up from the stream bed and grow horizontally along the ground conveniently providing trail borders and benches before pivoting upward into leafy crowns.

The paper author’s onomatopoeic term for such trees seemed perfect: “decumbent sprawlers.” It captured the combination of weighted immobility and reptilian motion that I sensed passing them on my daily walks.  He provided an ecological explanation for their animated shape as the final stage of the tree’s growth. Young willows spring up single and erect to compete for light as do other pioneer species. Those which are shaded die out, while the survivors sprout multiple trunks from their bases, turning from trees into shrubs. Their rapid accumulation of biomass leads to breakage of limbs and trunks that cant be supported under the stress of weight and wind.  Such breaks would leave other species liable to infection, weakening and mortality. But willows can tolerate open wounds indefinitely, and their broken limbs continue to grow and heal even if thinly attached. They re-root when touching the ground, where they continue growing horizontally and mature as sprawlers that sprout decumbent vertical shoots which thrive in the light opened by the breaks.

Upon returning to the creek the next morning, I came upon a large branch that must have broken the night before, while I was reading the article.  Instead of an ugly marker of weakness and injury that needed to be cleared, I saw it now as the tree’s extension of territory and length of life.

I’d been led to the paper listening to the first chapter of Landmarks, a 2017 book written and narrated by Robert MacFarlane, mountaineer, naturalist, Cambridge English professor, and splendid stylist, while while walking with the dog at Pismo Beach. His thesis about the interrelation of language, literature and appreciation of nature is a variant of the one guiding the Cal Poly class I taught from 1998 until retirement in 2014, “Ecolit, Reading and Writing the Landscape,” its syllabus headed by a quote from Thoreau

Where is the literature which gives expression to Nature? He would be a poet who could impress the winds and streams into his service, to speak for him …whose words were so true, and fresh, and natural that they would appear to expand like the buds at the approach of spring, though they lay half smothered between two musty leaves in a library.

Grieving for the new Oxford Junior Dictionary’s culling of words like acorn, fern, otter and pasture, which named particulars of the natural world, and their replacement with terms like attachment, chatroom, and voicemail– supposedly of more relevance to modern children–MacFarlane includes glossaries of traditional local words for landscape features, plants, and animals whose loss accompanies the loss of the features they name under the pressure of industrial/commercial development. Naming, he observes, is the prerequisite for knowing, a point confirmed by my subsequent discovery of “sprawler.”

In addition to preserving dying vocabulary, MacFarlane practices literary criticism in appreciation of obscure books of nature writing, like The Living Mountain, a volume of essays by Nan Shepherd produced in the course of her wanderings through the Cangorns, a range on the island of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, which he has explored since early childhood visiting his grandfather there.

Facing an abyss of unstructured time at this interval of the Prefumo project, MacFarlane encourages me to relate to the Creek in a different way, to make the difficult transition from physical activity back to my earlier academic engagement with reading and writing the landscape.

Went this morning to water the seeds on the steep bank above the riffle secured by jute netting and covered with a light layer of compost.  After that took out the paddle board, as I’d been resolving to do for some time, carried it and a paddle and a pole saw down to the beach, along with my phone sealed up in the cookie container.  Water and air were calm. Paddled slowly to the top of the long pool below the log seating area, where, as before there was a minor blockage of twigs, a log, and some caught up trash.  Tried to clear them, but didnt feel the stamina to portage over the bank to the next pool upstream, which I saw was full of small patches of algae. Worked vigorously to cut and move the brush (without power tools, yuck) and to free the flow, quicken the current above and below and hopefully flush the algae out.

Back home I lunched and napped and did a little housework while Jan prepared for the dinner gathering tonight.  After researching cannabis in copenhagen and discovering the difficulty of finding it since the demolition of “pusher’s alley,” I took up another long delayed obligation: to try out the tablet form cannabis edibles I’d bought for our trip in 2023 to determine if they were still good.

I lay down again and put in earbuds and started the Beethoven Adagios collection, which sounded as if I was stoned.  After an hour I walked the dog to the creek, experiencing heightened colors and sensations.  There I tried out a number of sit spots, though the wind was blowing wildly.

I saw two things at the edge of perception I’d not encountered before: beside the rifflepool, sheltered from the turmoil above, I saw tiny points of light floating downstream at a steady pace. As soon as I took notice of an individual, it would blink out.  I concluded that these were little sun magnifiers produced by reflective cups of the water’s surface tension formed around miniscule floating particles–bugs, blossoms, flotsam.

Afterwards, sitting on the eucalyptus log near the Water Shed out in the wind , I watched two red tailed hawks flying high. Then coming from the housing development I saw a flock of tiny purple birds, or maybe large insects, wavily making their way in my direction. As I stared, the body of the flock sent out elongated arms in which I could still see tiny purple creatures.  And then suddenly they disappeared, but not before I could tell that they were actually shreds of cloud–separate drops or droplets blown by the wind from the west and dissipating on their way over the creek and approaching the farmland.

Last week we received a meticulously packed parcel from Hanna and Karl Britz containing a new book published by the Community Foundation of Kehl titled On the Trail of the Stumbling Stones in Kehl: Memories of Jewish Kehl, to which they  made major contributions.  Their enclosed card recalls the intense experience of our visit with them in 2023 and alerts us to the inclusion of  material we provided for an entry about my great grandfather, Josef Wertheimer. As noted in the introduction, the recent trend toward extreme right-wing politics in Germany  as well as in many other countries make this project all the more relevant today. [English translation provided by Mac Photos app]

(more…)

Thanks Vivian and Judy for forwarding this information.  The fact that it happens to any of us at this age is to be expected, but that it took place two months ago shocked me into recognition of how close what seems far away can actually be.

Friday January 17 was the day appointed for the harvest, that is, the slaughter, of my favorite sheep of the flock.  Savannah, our wheelchair-bound student in Therapeutic Horticulture, gave her this name and I always preferred it, but she was officially known as Maple. I made no objection to the choice of sacrificial lamb, affirming the need to regard our animals as livestock rather than pets in order to maintain the semblance of an agricultural enterprise and to recoup a portion of the expense of breeding and feeding them. There was also the value of their hides for wool rugs and for me, otherwise a confirmed vegetarian, the opportunity to eat the most delicious meat I’d ever come across and share it with others on festive occasions.

Unlike the farm’s true pet sheep, Tucker, who was bottle fed from birth and raised as a 4H project by a young girl in Paso intending to sell her at the 2020 County Fair  but adopted out to us after the Fair was cancelled by COVID, Capri was never halter broken and like the others, only controllable when following Tucker, who would go wherever his shepherd or shepherdess led.

Whenever I approached Capri’s corral or pasture with a friendly greeting, she’d join the others in turning and walking away.  But if I came in, sat down on an upturned bucket and played my recorder for a few minutes, she’d shyly approach and then nose up to me for some closed-eye skritchy-scratchy followed by stroking on her cheeks and chin.